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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.